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DCM Masterclass

60 hrs 20 mins

LESSONS

Week 1: Base Slopers

Taping and Measuring Your Dress Form, and Measurements for Muslin Preparation
Lesson 1
Taping and Measuring Your Dress Form, and Measurements for Muslin Preparation
How to properly tape and measure a dress form in preparation for draping. I explain the essential lines that need to be marked, such as the center front, bust, waist, hip, side seam, and others.
6 mins
Before You Start Draping Slopers PDF
Lesson 2
Before You Start Draping Slopers PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Basic Bodice with 1 Dart (Waist) - Draping
Lesson 3
Basic Bodice with 1 Dart (Waist) - Draping
Step-by-step process of draping the front and back bodice pieces, creating darts to shape the fabric around the curves, and marking all the necessary points and lines to transfer the draped muslin into a pattern later.
27 mins
Basic Bodice with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust) - Draping
Lesson 4
Basic Bodice with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust) - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to drape a basic bodice with two darts - one at the waistline and another at the bust line. This method is especially helpful for those with a fuller bust and smaller waist, as it distributes the excess fabric into two separate darts for a better fit.
15 mins
Straight Skirt - Draping
Lesson 5
Straight Skirt - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to drape a basic straight skirt on a dress form, incorporating darts to achieve the desired fit.
20 mins
Tapered Skirt - Draping
Lesson 6
Tapered Skirt - Draping
In this lesson, I demonstrate how to taper a straight skirt by folding in the fabric from the hip line towards the hem, creating a slimmer silhouette at the bottom while maintaining the straight grain at the waistline.
6 mins
A-Line Skirt - Draping
Lesson 7
A-Line Skirt - Draping
How to create an A-line skirt from a straight skirt pattern by releasing the fabric at the hemline. I demonstrate marking the desired A-line flare and pinning the excess fabric to achieve the desired silhouette.
4 mins
Attaching Bodice & Skirt, Turning into a Dress Sloper
Lesson 8
Attaching Bodice & Skirt, Turning into a Dress Sloper
I demonstrate the steps to properly attach the draped bodice and skirt pieces together, ensuring the darts are closed and the waistlines are matched. This creates a cohesive dress with princess seam lines flowing from bodice to skirt.
7 mins
Sleeve Sloper Muslin Preparation PDF
Lesson 9
Sleeve Sloper Muslin Preparation PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Basic Sleeve - Draping
Lesson 10
Basic Sleeve - Draping
How to sew the sleeve pieces together and then attach them to the armhole of the dress form, easing in the sleeve cap to create a smooth curve over the shoulder area. I mark important points like the elbow, wrist, bicep and back/front lines for transferring to a paper pattern later.
13 mins
Basic Bodice with 1 Dart (Waist) - Patternmaking
Lesson 11
Basic Bodice with 1 Dart (Waist) - Patternmaking
How to trace the draped muslin onto dot paper using a tracing wheel, then draw in the seamlines and darts. I explain truing the darts by folding and aligning the dart legs. I also cover matching the side seams, shoulders, and adjusting for a smooth armhole curve. Finally, I add seam allowances to complete the paper pattern pieces.
1 hr 11 mins
Basic Bodice with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust) - Patternmaking
Lesson 12
Basic Bodice with 2 Darts (Waist and Bust) - Patternmaking
How to transfer a draped basic bodice with waist and bust darts onto paper to create a pattern. I trace the muslin pieces, mark important points like apex, and close the darts to get the final pattern shape. Adjustments aree made to blend the front and back patterns smoothly.
29 mins
Skirts - Patternmaking
Lesson 13
Skirts - Patternmaking
I demonstrate the process of transferring a draped skirt muslin onto paper to create a master skirt block pattern. I show how to true the darts, add desired lengths, and create straight, tapered or A-line skirt styles from the basic block.
49 mins
Basic Sleeve - Patternmaking
Lesson 14
Basic Sleeve - Patternmaking
In this session, I taught how to draft a basic sleeve pattern from a muslin sleeve. I demonstrated tracing the key lines and measurements onto paper to create the sleeve block.
30 mins

Week 2: Darts Variations

Before You Start Draping Slopers PDF (From Week 1)
Lesson 15
Before You Start Draping Slopers PDF (From Week 1)
Print this PDF for future reference!
Taping and Measuring Your Dress Form, and Measurements for Muslin Preparation (From Week 1)
Lesson 16
Taping and Measuring Your Dress Form, and Measurements for Muslin Preparation (From Week 1)
How to properly tape and measure a dress form in preparation for draping. I explain the essential lines that need to be marked, such as the center front, bust, waist, hip, side seam, and others.
6 mins
French Dart - Draping
Lesson 17
French Dart - Draping
How to drape a French dart on a dress form. I cover the importance of reference lines, preparing the muslin, and the step-by-step process of pinning and shaping the fabric to create a French dart silhouette. I also demonstrate how to mark important lines and transfer the drape to a pattern piece.
12 mins
Shoulder Dart - Draping
Lesson 18
Shoulder Dart - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to create a shoulder dart through draping. I demonstrate the process of manipulating fabric to create a well-fitted bodice, focusing on the shoulder area and explaining the difference between armhole and shoulder darts.
9 mins
Center Front Dart - Draping
Lesson 19
Center Front Dart - Draping
How to create a bodice with a center front dart using draping techniques. I demonstrate the process of preparing the dress form, placing and pinning the muslin, and creating the center front dart. I also show how to drape the back of the bodice and make necessary adjustments.
16 mins
Asymmetric Dart - Draping
Lesson 20
Asymmetric Dart - Draping
How to create an asymmetric dart through draping. I demonstrate how to manipulate fabric on a dress form to create a unique dart placement, emphasizing the importance of maintaining proper grain lines while allowing for creative freedom in design.
17 mins
Empire Bodice - Draping
Lesson 21
Empire Bodice - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to drape an empire bodice. I demonstrate the process of creating the top and bottom sections of the bodice, including how to add darts, tucks, and ease for a proper fit. I also show how to drape both the front and back pieces of the bodice.
39 mins
Multiple Darts Bodice - Draping
Lesson 22
Multiple Darts Bodice - Draping
How to create multiple darts, gathers, or tucks instead of a single large dart to shape fabric around the body. I demonstrate various techniques for distributing excess fabric creatively, including closed darts, open darts, gathers, and pleats.
9 mins
French Dart - Patternmaking
Lesson 23
French Dart - Patternmaking
In this lesson, I teach how to transfer a French dart drape to a paper pattern. I demonstrate the process of tracing the muslin piece onto dotted paper, marking key reference points, and refining the pattern with a ruler.
8 mins
Shoulder Dart - Patternmaking
Lesson 24
Shoulder Dart - Patternmaking
How to create a shoulder dart in a bodice pattern. I demonstrate the process of drafting the new pattern lines, adjusting the armhole and neckline, and folding the dart. I also show how to handle excess fabric in large darts and how to match the front and back bodice pieces.
22 mins
Center Front Dart - Patternmaking
Lesson 25
Center Front Dart - Patternmaking
How to transfer a draped bodice with a center front dart to a paper pattern. I demonstrate the process for both the front and back pieces, including how to mark darts, adjust lines, and match the front and back pieces.
17 mins
Asymmetric Dart - Patternmaking
Lesson 26
Asymmetric Dart - Patternmaking
How to create an asymmetric dart bodice pattern. I demonstrate how to transfer the draped muslin to paper, make necessary adjustments, and finalize the pattern. I also provide tips on how to use this pattern as a base for future designs.
47 mins
Empire Bodice - Patternmaking
Lesson 27
Empire Bodice - Patternmaking
In this lesson, I teach how to create a pattern for an empire bodice with small tucks instead of one large dart. I demonstrate how to transfer the muslin pieces to pattern paper, true the seams, add ease, and make necessary adjustments to ensure a perfect fit.
1 hr 10 mins
Multiple Darts Bodice - Patternmaking
Lesson 28
Multiple Darts Bodice - Patternmaking
How to create a multiple darts bodice pattern. I demonstrate how to transfer the muslin onto dot paper, mark the darts, and create a clean, professional pattern. I emphasize the importance of organization and precision in patternmaking.
33 mins

Week 3: Bodice Styles

Before You Start Draping / Preparation PDF
Lesson 29
Before You Start Draping / Preparation PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Classic Princess Bodice - Draping
Lesson 30
Classic Princess Bodice - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to create a classic princess bodice through draping. I demonstrate how to measure the dress form, prepare muslin pieces, and drape both the front and back sections of the bodice, including the center and side pieces.
37 mins
Dior Dart - Draping
Lesson 31
Dior Dart - Draping
How to drape a panel dart, also known as the Dior dart. I demonstrate how to create a straight, loose bodice with this dart style, which has been featured in various Christian Dior designs. The lesson covers draping techniques for the front, side, and back panels, as well as how to adjust the silhouette for different looks.
36 mins
Armhole Princess Bodice - Draping
Lesson 32
Armhole Princess Bodice - Draping
How to drape an armhole princess bodice, which differs from the classic princess bodice. I demonstrate how to prepare the muslin, drape the front and back pieces, and create the side panels. I also explain the importance of adding ease and making adjustments for a proper fit.
38 mins
Curved French Dart - Draping
Lesson 33
Curved French Dart - Draping
How to drape a curved French dart, a technique commonly used in couture. I demonstrate the process on a dress form, showing how to mark the curve, drape the muslin, and create the dart. This technique can be applied to various dart placements on the body.
14 mins
Surplice Top - Draping
Lesson 34
Surplice Top - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to drape a surplice top on a size 14 dress form. I demonstrate how to prepare the muslin, drape the front and back pieces, create darts and gathers, and mark reference points for pattern making.
1 hr 17 mins
Full Torso Princess Bodice - Draping
Lesson 35
Full Torso Princess Bodice - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to drape a full torso princess bodice that is very close-fitting. This sloper can be used as a base for various dress designs, resizing dress forms, or as an underlayer for padding. The focus is on creating a skin-tight fit, almost like a corset.
1 hr 38 mins
Classic Princess Bodice - Patternmaking
Lesson 36
Classic Princess Bodice - Patternmaking
How to create a classic princess bodice pattern. I demonstrate the process of transferring the drape to paper, truing the lines, and making necessary adjustments to ensure a perfect fit. We focus on both the front and back pieces, paying close attention to the princess seams and overall shape.
41 mins
Armhole Princess Bodice - Patternmaking
Lesson 37
Armhole Princess Bodice - Patternmaking
How to create an armhole princess bodice pattern. I demonstrate the process of aligning pattern pieces, tracing, and adjusting the pattern to ensure a perfect fit. I also show how to blend lines for a smooth finish and add seam allowances.
43 mins
Dior Dart - Patternmaking
Lesson 38
Dior Dart - Patternmaking
How to create a pattern for a panel bodice or Dior dart top. I demonstrate how to transfer the draped design to pattern paper, make adjustments, and finalize the pattern pieces for a three-panel top with a Dior dart.
45 mins
Curved French Dart - Patternmaking
Lesson 39
Curved French Dart - Patternmaking
In this lesson, I teach how to transfer a curved bodice draped piece to a paper pattern. I demonstrate the process of tracing the pattern, making necessary adjustments, and creating a curved French dart. This lesson focuses on advanced patternmaking techniques for a more complex bodice design.
29 mins
Surplice Top - Patternmaking
Lesson 40
Surplice Top - Patternmaking
In this lesson, I teach how to create the pattern for a surplice top with pleats. I demonstrate the process of transferring the draped pieces onto paper, including how to mark and fold the pleats, adjust darts, and ensure proper fit and symmetry.
1 hr 11 mins
Full Torso Princess Bodice - Patternmaking
Lesson 41
Full Torso Princess Bodice - Patternmaking
In this lesson, I teach how to create a very close-fitting full body princess sloper. I demonstrate transferring the pattern to dot paper, separating the pieces, and making necessary adjustments for a snug fit. The focus is on creating an accurate, close-fitting pattern that could potentially be used as a dress form cover.
1 hr 42 mins

Week 4: Jerseys & Creative Cutting

Jersey Week 1 Information PDF
Lesson 42
Jersey Week 1 Information PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
T-Shirt Foundation - Draping
Lesson 43
T-Shirt Foundation - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to drape a basic t-shirt foundation on a dress form using jersey fabric. I demonstrate how to create a grid on the fabric, place it on the dress form, and pin it in place to create a well-fitting foundation for both relaxed and close-fitted t-shirts.
13 mins
Very Close Fitting Jersey Sloper - Draping
Lesson 44
Very Close Fitting Jersey Sloper - Draping
How to create a very close-fitting jersey sloper through draping. I demonstrate the process for both the front and back pieces, focusing on achieving a tight fit while maintaining proper alignment of center lines and key body points.
17 mins
T-Shirt Foundation - Patternmaking
Lesson 45
T-Shirt Foundation - Patternmaking
How to transfer a t-shirt foundation to a paper pattern. I demonstrate how to make adjustments for both close-fitting and relaxed-fit styles, including dart manipulation and armhole adjustments. I also explain the importance of truing the pattern and double-checking measurements.
43 mins
Very Close Fitting Jersey Sloper - Patternmaking
Lesson 46
Very Close Fitting Jersey Sloper - Patternmaking
In this lesson, I teach how to create a very close fitting full body jersey sloper. I demonstrate how to transfer measurements from a dress form to paper, make necessary adjustments, and finalize the pattern for both front and back pieces.
16 mins
Introduction to Geometric Cutting
Lesson 47
Introduction to Geometric Cutting
In this session, I introduce the concept of creative draping using geometric cutting techniques for jersey, knits, and stretchy fabrics. I focus on three basic shapes: rectangular, square, and triangle, demonstrating how to cut, sew, and drape these shapes on a dress form. This lesson is designed to be playful and introduce students to fluid, different shapes in clothing design.
3 mins
Cutting the Geometric Shapes
Lesson 48
Cutting the Geometric Shapes
In this lesson, I teach how to cut basic geometric shapes for dressmaking. I demonstrate cutting rectangles, squares, and triangles from jersey fabric, explaining the measurements and techniques for each shape. I also show how to adjust measurements based on dress form size.
13 mins
Sewing the Geometric Shapes
Lesson 49
Sewing the Geometric Shapes
How to sew geometric shapes to create unique garments. I demonstrate how to work with rectangular and triangular pieces to form sleeves, bodices, and necklines. The focus is on experimenting with shapes and assembly rather than perfect finishing.
36 mins
Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 1
Lesson 50
Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 1
How to create simple yet effective designs using basic geometric shapes like rectangles, triangles, and squares. I demonstrate how these shapes can be draped on a model or dress form to create various looks without complex pattern-making or alterations.
28 mins
Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 2
Lesson 51
Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 2
How to create and modify a basic triangular top using jersey fabric. I demonstrate various techniques for adjusting the neckline, adding design elements like pleats, and creating different looks by manipulating the fabric.
27 mins
Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 3
Lesson 52
Draping and Fitting the Geometric Shapes - Part 3
In this lesson, I teach how to drape and fit a kimono-style top with a tubular skirt. I demonstrate various techniques for creating different designs, from fitted to loose, and showed how to manipulate the fabric to achieve different looks.
35 mins

Week 5: Jerseys & Geometric Odd Shapes

Measurements and Diagrams PDF
Lesson 53
Measurements and Diagrams PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Overview and Concept of Unconventional Geometric Cutting
Lesson 54
Overview and Concept of Unconventional Geometric Cutting
I introduce the concept of unconventional geometric cutting in dressmaking. I teach how to push the boundaries of conventional design by experimenting with shapes and lines, drawing inspiration from designers like Rick Owens and Alexander McQueen. I explain the difference between conventional and unconventional approaches to garment design.
12 mins
Patterns Demo and Measurements
Lesson 55
Patterns Demo and Measurements
How to create three basic t-shirt patterns with varying designs. I demonstrate how to make a simple rectangular t-shirt, a triangular-shaped t-shirt, and an unconventional design with an off-center neckline. I provide measurements and explain how to adjust them based on individual body sizes.
13 mins
Overview of the Three T-Shirt Shapes
Lesson 56
Overview of the Three T-Shirt Shapes
In this lesson, I teach three different t-shirt shapes: a basic conventional style, a slightly modified version, and a more unconventional design. I demonstrate how small changes in sleeve length, bottom hem, and side seams can create distinct looks. I also introduce the concept of using different colors for the front and back in the unconventional design.
7 mins
Cutting the Three T-Shirt Jerseys
Lesson 57
Cutting the Three T-Shirt Jerseys
In this lesson, I teach how to cut three different t-shirt patterns from jersey fabric. I demonstrate how to pin and cut the fabric for each design, emphasizing that this was an experimental process to show different shapes and techniques. I also explain the basic assembly steps for each t-shirt style.
8 mins
Geometrical Odd Shapes Dress Ideas
Lesson 58
Geometrical Odd Shapes Dress Ideas
How to create unconventional dress styles using simple geometric shapes. I demonstrate how to push the boundaries of traditional dress patterns by manipulating rectangular shapes and adding unique elements like asymmetrical sleeves.
5 mins
Cutting 1st Geometric Odd Shape Dress
Lesson 59
Cutting 1st Geometric Odd Shape Dress
How to cut and create the first geometric odd shape dress using an interlock jersey fabric. I demonstrate how to measure, fold, and cut the fabric to create an unconventional dress shape with rectangular elements.
9 mins
Cutting 2nd Geometric Odd Shape Dress
Lesson 60
Cutting 2nd Geometric Odd Shape Dress
How to cut and prepare the pieces for an experimental geometric odd shape dress using a lightweight interlock jersey fabric. I demonstrate how to measure, fold, and cut the fabric for the main body and sleeves, creating unique curved patterns.
14 mins
Sewing All the Pieces
Lesson 61
Sewing All the Pieces
How to sew together various t-shirt designs we had previously created. I demonstrate sewing techniques for different styles, including a basic T-shaped shirt, one with softer side seams, a color-blocked version, and a more complex design with unique arm construction.
7 mins
Cutting the Necklines Before Fitting
Lesson 62
Cutting the Necklines Before Fitting
In this lesson, I teach how to experiment with unconventional neckline placements on basic t-shirts and dresses. I demonstrate cutting necklines in unexpected locations to push the boundaries of traditional design and create interesting, unique looks.
9 mins
Fitting of Geometric Odd Shape Tops and Dresses
Lesson 63
Fitting of Geometric Odd Shape Tops and Dresses
How to create unique and interesting tops and dresses using unconventional draping techniques. I demonstrate how to transform basic t-shirt shapes into high-end designer-looking pieces by manipulating necklines, armholes, and fabric placement. We explored various ways to add interesting elements and create effortless, chic looks.
44 mins

Week 6: Skirts

Skirt Week Measurements PDF
Lesson 64
Skirt Week Measurements PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Peg Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation
Lesson 65
Peg Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation
In this lesson, I teach how to drape a peg skirt, a popular style from the 50s and 60s that's making a comeback. I explain the characteristics of this close-fitting pencil skirt silhouette and introduced the muslin preparation process for draping.
2 mins
Controlled Flare Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation
Lesson 66
Controlled Flare Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation
How to create a controlled flare skirt, which allows you to determine where and how much flare you want in specific areas of the skirt. This technique gives you more control over the skirt's shape compared to traditional circle skirts, allowing for a more customized fit and silhouette.
7 mins
Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Overview and Muslin Preparation
Lesson 67
Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Overview and Muslin Preparation
How to prepare to drape a princess line skirt, also known as a gore skirt. This foundation can be used to create various skirt styles with multiple panels. I explain how to prepare the muslin pieces for draping and discussed the importance of measuring and adding extra width to each panel.
4 mins
180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation
Lesson 68
180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Overview and Muslin Preparation
How to prepare muslin for a 90-degree fold creative draping skirt, which is an extension of creative cut and geometric cut pieces. I explain that this technique has been used by Christian Dior and is a fun, creative draping method.
3 mins
Peg Skirt - Draping
Lesson 69
Peg Skirt - Draping
How to drape a peg skirt, starting from the center back and moving towards the front. I demonstrate how to create the characteristic peg skirt shape by gathering and pleating excess fabric towards the front while keeping the back clean and fitted.
19 mins
Controlled Flare Skirt - Draping
Lesson 70
Controlled Flare Skirt - Draping
How to create a controlled flare skirt using draping techniques. I demonstrate how to strategically cut and manipulate fabric to control the flare in specific areas, creating a flattering silhouette without gathers or pleats at the waist. This method allows for more customization than traditional circle or A-line skirts.
29 mins
Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Draping
Lesson 71
Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Draping
How to drape a princess line skirt foundation-sloper. I demonstrate the process of draping the front and back pieces, focusing on achieving the correct fit and shape. The lesson covers creating a natural fit, marking important lines, and assembling the pieces to check the overall silhouette.
25 mins
180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Draping
Lesson 72
180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Draping
In this lesson, I teach how to create a creatively draped skirt using a 180-degree fold technique. I demonstrate how to prepare the fabric, place it on the dress form, and manipulate it to achieve the desired silhouette. I also show how to drape the back piece and create darts for a better fit.
30 mins
Peg Skirt - Patternmaking
Lesson 73
Peg Skirt - Patternmaking
How to turn a draped peg skirt into a pattern. I demonstrate the process of transferring the draped piece onto dot paper, marking pleats and darts, and creating a clean, finished pattern. I also discuss fabric choices, lining options, and finishing techniques for this stylish skirt design.
31 mins
Controlled Flare Skirt - Patternmaking
Lesson 74
Controlled Flare Skirt - Patternmaking
How to transfer a controlled flare skirt from draping to pattern. I demonstrate how to create both the front and back pattern pieces, add length, and create a smooth hemline. I also explain how to add facings and finish the skirt professionally.
23 mins
Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Patternmaking
Lesson 75
Princess Line Skirt Foundation / Sloper - Patternmaking
How to create a princess line skirt foundation-sloper. I demonstrate how to true the pattern pieces, add length, and create variations such as straight, tapered, A-line, and flared skirts. I also explain how to add ease and use this sloper as a base for future designs.
1 hr 3 mins
180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Patternmaking
Lesson 76
180 Degree Fold Creative Draping Skirt - Patternmaking
How to turn a 90-degree draped skirt into a pattern. I demonstrate the process of transferring the draped design onto pattern paper, including how to true the lines, add crucial information, and create a finished pattern for both the front and back pieces of the skirt.
33 mins

Week 7: Dresses

Dress Week Measurements PDF
Lesson 77
Dress Week Measurements PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Overview and Muslin Preparation
Lesson 78
Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Overview and Muslin Preparation
In this lesson, I teach how to prepare for draping sheath and shift dresses. I explain the classic style of these dresses and the importance of proper muslin preparation. I demonstrate how to measure the dress form accurately to create the muslin pattern for both front and back pieces.
6 mins
Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Draping
Lesson 79
Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Draping
How to drape three different dress styles: shift, semi-fitted, and sheath dresses. I demonstrate the techniques for creating each style, starting with the basic shift dress and progressing to the more fitted sheath dress. I also show how to create a boat neckline variation.
1 hr 5 mins
Panel Dress - Draping
Lesson 80
Panel Dress - Draping
How to drape a panel dress on a larger size dress form with a unique shape. I demonstrate how to create an illusion of contouring the body using design lines and sectional draping techniques. The dress features a v-neck, no shoulder seam, and a fitted silhouette.
1 hr 13 mins
Twist Dress - Draping
Lesson 81
Twist Dress - Draping
How to drape a twist dress, which falls into creative draping. I demonstrate how to prepare the fabric, drape it on the dress form, and create the unique twist effect around the waistline. This technique can be applied to various fabrics and styles, allowing for personalized and creative designs.
48 mins
Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Patternmaking
Lesson 82
Sheath, Semi-Fitted and Shift Dresses - Patternmaking
How to create a basic sheath dress pattern sloper with ease. I demonstrate how to trace the muslin pieces, draw the darts, and make necessary adjustments. I also explain how to modify the pattern for different dress styles, including sheath, shift, and boxy silhouettes.
49 mins
Panel Dress - Patternmaking
Lesson 83
Panel Dress - Patternmaking
How to create a pattern for a panel dress from muslin pieces. I demonstrate how to transfer the draping to paper, make necessary adjustments, and true the pattern pieces. I also explain the importance of adding ease, handling bias areas, and including essential information on pattern pieces.
1 hr 10 mins
Twist Dress - Patternmaking
Lesson 84
Twist Dress - Patternmaking
In this lesson, I teach how to transfer a draped twist muslin into a pattern. I demonstrate the process of flattening the muslin, pinning it to dotted paper, and transferring the markings with a tracing wheel. I also show how to true the pattern pieces and add necessary adjustments.
37 mins

Week 8: Corset

Corsets Information PDF
Lesson 85
Corsets Information PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Corset Introduction and Preparation
Lesson 86
Corset Introduction and Preparation
In this session, I teach you how to prepare for draping a corset. We will be making a traditional sweetheart corset with a center front seam that curves around the bust. I show different types of breast cups and how to attach them to the dress form. The key is getting the right size and positioning them properly for the desired shape.
16 mins
Draping the Corset
Lesson 87
Draping the Corset
How to drape the corset pattern directly on the dress form. I start by preparing straight grain fabric pieces and pinning the center front line. Then, I shape the fabric around the bust and waist areas, pinning and trimming as needed to achieve a smooth fit.
28 mins
Information on Corset Types and Materials
Lesson 88
Information on Corset Types and Materials
In this session, I share details about corset making, the materials used, and the finishing techniques involved. I explain the different types of corsets, from lightweight bridal corsets to heavily structured historical pieces.
35 mins
Corset Construction Final Fabrics
Lesson 89
Corset Construction Final Fabrics
I showcase the materials I plan to use for constructing my corset. I selected a cotton-polyester brocade fabric for the outer shell and a structured satin fabric for the lining. I also introduced a fusible, mid-weight knit interfacing that she will use for both the shell and lining fabrics.
2 mins
Preparation for First Fitting with Draped Pieces
Lesson 90
Preparation for First Fitting with Draped Pieces
How to prepare the draped pieces for the first fitting before transferring them to a final pattern. I demonstrate cleaning up the outlines of the draped muslin pieces and adding seam allowances. I also explain the process of fusing the muslin pieces onto interfacing to give them structure for the initial fitting.
15 mins
First Fitting with Draped Pieces
Lesson 91
First Fitting with Draped Pieces
In this lesson, I fuse the muslin pieces with horsehair fusible interfacing and attached all six draped pieces together. I then take the assembled muslin to my dress form for the first fitting.
30 mins
Truing the Corset Pattern
Lesson 92
Truing the Corset Pattern
How to true the corset pattern pieces by matching seams, adjusting curves, and adding notches for proper alignment during sewing.
29 mins
Cutting Corset Fabric Lining and Interfacing
Lesson 93
Cutting Corset Fabric Lining and Interfacing
I demonstrate how to cut the fabric, lining, and interfacing for a corset or bustier project. I explain the different materials being used, including a brocade fabric for the outer shell, a mid-weight satin knit for the lining, and interfacing to provide structure.
11 mins
Sewing the Corset
Lesson 94
Sewing the Corset
I teach how to sew the corset pieces together, emphasizing the importance of carefully matching the pattern pieces and notches to avoid mixing up the order. I demonstrate sewing the outer fabric pieces first, then the lining pieces, preparing them for the next steps of adding boning and bust cups.
26 mins
Determining the Length of Bonings and Placement of Bust Cups
Lesson 95
Determining the Length of Bonings and Placement of Bust Cups
How to measure and prepare the boning pieces for the corset project. I show the top shell and lining pieces, explaining the need for the lining to be slightly smaller than the outer fabric.
18 mins
Sewing Bonings to the Lining
Lesson 96
Sewing Bonings to the Lining
I demonstrate how to sew the bonings (rigid interfacing strips) to the lining of the dress. I first apply interfacing on top of the bonings and press them carefully to avoid melting. Then, I position the center front piece along the marked center line and sew the boning on either side of the seam.
11 mins
Breast Cup Placement
Lesson 97
Breast Cup Placement
In this lesson, I demonstrate how to properly position and attach the breast cups to the bodice. This step is crucial for achieving the desired fit and support in the bust area.
4 mins
Sewing the Zipper
Lesson 98
Sewing the Zipper
How to sew the zipper onto the back of a top piece. I carefully align the notches and seams before attaching the zipper, ensuring a perfect fit.
13 mins
Attaching Corset and Lining
Lesson 99
Attaching Corset and Lining
How to attach the corset outer layer to the lining. I first check the fit on the dress form, ensuring everything is neat and even before proceeding to pin and sew the layers together.
10 mins
Finishing the Corset
Lesson 100
Finishing the Corset
In this session, I teach how to finish the bottom of the corset by adding a bias strip and hand-stitching it for a clean, professional look. I also discuss alternative methods like machine stitching or attaching a skirt lining.
33 mins
Creative Draping on a Constructed Base
Lesson 101
Creative Draping on a Constructed Base
In this lesson, I teach how to creatively drape fabrics on a constructed base like a corset or fitted bodice. I demonstrate draping techniques to achieve structured yet fluid designs suitable for gowns and wedding dresses.
1 hr 18 mins

Week 9: Sleeves

Sleeves Variations Drafting PDF
Lesson 102
Sleeves Variations Drafting PDF
Print this PDF for future reference!
Introduction, Taping and Measurements for Sleeve Pattern
Lesson 103
Introduction, Taping and Measurements for Sleeve Pattern
In this lesson, I introduce the anatomy of sleeves and explained why combining drafting and draping is the best method for creating sleeves. I teach how to prepare for sleeve pattern-making by gathering necessary tools and taking accurate measurements from the dress form and arm.
10 mins
Preparation of Schematic of Sleeve Sloper
Lesson 104
Preparation of Schematic of Sleeve Sloper
How to create a schematic for a sleeve sloper. I demonstrate how to draw the initial diagram, divide it into sections, and create the curved armhole shape. I also show how to transfer the pattern to muslin and prepare it for fitting.
33 mins
Fitting Sleeve Sloper #1
Lesson 105
Fitting Sleeve Sloper #1
How to attach and fit a sleeve sloper to the bodice. I demonstrate the process of matching seams, easing the sleeve cap, and pinning it in place. The focus is on achieving a clean fit without excessive ease at the top of the sleeve.
8 mins
Draping Sleeve #2 Without Prior Shaping
Lesson 106
Draping Sleeve #2 Without Prior Shaping
In this lesson, I teach how to shape an unshaped sleeve piece around the body. I demonstrate how to add fullness, ease, and make adjustments to create a well-fitting sleeve that matches the body's sloper. This process is crucial for creating a perfect sleeve sloper before moving on to more advanced sleeve styles.
10 mins
Basic Sleeve Sloper Patternmaking
Lesson 107
Basic Sleeve Sloper Patternmaking
How to transfer a draped sleeve to a pattern and create a basic sleeve sloper. I demonstrate the differences between the paper pattern and the draped piece, and explain how to adjust the sleeve curve for different effects.
6 mins
Puffed Cap Sleeve
Lesson 108
Puffed Cap Sleeve
In this lesson, I teach how to create a puffed cap sleeve from a basic sleeve pattern. I demonstrate how to modify the pattern, add volume, and create gathers for a cute, short sleeve with a slight puff at the top.
19 mins
Draped Sleeve
Lesson 109
Draped Sleeve
How to create a unique draped sleeve using a square fabric and pleating techniques. I demonstrate how to manipulate fabric to create interesting designs and transform them into a functional sleeve. This technique allows for creativity and customization in sleeve design.
22 mins
Raglan Sleeve - Draping
Lesson 110
Raglan Sleeve - Draping
How to create a raglan sleeve pattern through draping. I demonstrate the process of transferring the sloper to paper, cutting and preparing the fabric, and then draping it on the dress form to achieve the desired raglan sleeve shape.
20 mins
Raglan Sleeve - Patternmaking
Lesson 111
Raglan Sleeve - Patternmaking
In this lesson, I teach how to create a basic raglan sleeve sloper. I demonstrate the process of transferring the pattern, refining the lines, and explain how this sloper can be used as a foundation for various design variations.
8 mins
Peter Pan Collar
Lesson 112
Peter Pan Collar
In this lesson, I teach how to drape a Peter Pan collar, which can be adapted to various collar styles. I demonstrate the technique using a 13x13 inch muslin piece and showed how to shape, pin, and mark the collar on a dress form.
27 mins
Off Shoulder / Bardot Sleeve
Lesson 113
Off Shoulder / Bardot Sleeve
How to create a drop shoulder and off-shoulder sleeve designs. I demonstrate how to make a Bardot sleeve, which is a band around the shoulder, and explain the process of creating a dropped shoulder sleeve that attaches underneath the arm.
10 mins

Week 10: Project Week & Refining

Facing & Lining Mini-Session
Lesson 114
Facing & Lining Mini-Session
In this session, I explain how to create facing and lining patterns for various bodice and skirt designs. I cover different techniques for making facings, including how to draft them for basic bodices, princess seam bodices, and skirts, as well as how to incorporate linings with facings. I also provide tips on interfacing, seam allowances, and how to handle darts when creating lining patterns.
30 mins

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